I
was in San Diego recently. I
spent three-quarters of a day in a place called Del Mar. It may be the nicest
place in the world. God damned nice place. Ocean, trains, beach,
fancy-dancy shops, surfers, and a really good NY-style Italian
pizzeria that offered a Chicken Parm hero with a Really good sauce.
Having been to San Diego before, and witnessed its wide, white-sand beaches and flat terrain, I came away judging it third amongst California's big three cities. Nice, yes; close to Mexico
-- that's a treat; and there was La Jolla, a quaint coastal town with a rocky beach and pounding waves. But San Diego didn't have San Francisco's winding coastal roads; no Muir Woods; no Stinson Beach. It didn't have LA's diversity, from Venice Beach to the Pacific
Palisades. It wasn't until this my second stay in San Diego, with
three-quarters of a day to kill waiting for a plane, that I took a
venture a tad north and discovered Del Mar, one of its northern coastal towns.
I
don't think you can put railroad tracks closer to the ocean than the
ones in Del Mar, California
Del
Mar grabs you as you drive through it heading north on US 101. It
doesn't reach out and grab you -- it grabs you like a beautiful woman does
when she's visiting your workplace and getting coffee from the kitchen, and
you decide its high time you got a cup of coffee yourself from the kitchen. Del Mar
is an active but quaint seaside village -- you can see the ocean
and its wide beach and towering aquamarine surf a block to the
left as you drive through the center of town heading north. I
was looking for a place to settle in and work, to put to best use
the free time I had before a late afternoon flight back to NYC.
Primarily
I was looking for a nook with AC power and a view of the California life.
Del Mar looked like a perfect fit. I did a quick drive-thru, canvassing the
town, and spied a community center on the beach that looked like it would get
me the requisite AC outlet, view of the ocean, and public bathrooms. I was
right. I parked and hunkered down with my coffee (purchased in La Jolla, a 15
minute drive from the south) and laptop. The beach on a Thursday work-day
morning was scattered with moms and small kids; on the bluff overlooking the
beach, retirees walked and sat on benches.
I
happened to sit smack dab next to a morning meeting of the local Del Mar
civic group, being held in the community center. Mostly retirees discussing
the events that the town would put on for the coming Spring, summer, and
Fall. A local opera singer would volunteer some performances in the summer
before his normal touring schedule kicked off in the Fall, the leader of the
group was happy to announce. After all the planning was done, the group
broke up and many headed downstairs for card games and recreation.
A
train runs through Del Mar, California, on about the closest train
tracks to the ocean that you'll ever see. Trains rip through town
during frequent intervals -- maybe 2 or 3 an hour. There's commuter
trains and long-distance passenger trains. A railroad crossing
across the main road past the community center announces their
arrival with the ringing of the alarm bell and lowering of the
crossing arms.
A
runner's path follows alongside the train tracks, on a minor bluff
overlooking the beach. And there's a public park at the top of that bluff,
with some benches and very plucky squirrels who almost demand a piece of
your sandwich if you decide to have lunch up there. By one of the benches
lies a plaque dedicated to a fellow who was a long-standing resident --
remembered for declaring that Del Mar was the best place on earth; he must
have spent many days sitting at the top of that bluff, the railroad tracks
at his back, and grand ocean in front of him, the pounding surf, the stiff ocean breeze, with the squirrels and the
smells of the California flowers and nature around him, and that big blue
sunny sky overhead.
Park
on bluff overlooking beach
I
ate my lunch on that bluff and didn't give a thing to the pesky squirrels,
who are fairly rude bastards actually. Chicken parm heros are made or broken
by the taste of the sauce. There's only a handful of places in my lifetime
of eating chicken parm heros that have had such a sweet and tasty sauce that
I'd travel miles out of my way to return to get one. One place was in Little
Neck, Queens, NY; went out of business 12 years ago.
Del Mar Pizza, just off the
main drag of Del Mar California, ranks as one of those places. An umm-umm
good, sweet-tasting tomato sauce. So good that I stopped back in the
eatery after eating it to tell the pretty young lass behind the counter that
it was a Great sauce. She was surprised and flattered. The eatery featured numerous pictures of NY and the
World Trade Center, as if it had been plucked right out of Staten Island and
flown to Del Mar. I wondered if the young hostess had ever been to NY;
perhaps she was the owner's daughter and had just migrated from Brooklyn to
sunny Del Mar. Either way, they make a great sauce.
The
beach at Del Mar, California
If
you're thinking of moving to Del Mar, you'd not be the first. The prices of
homes are quite stiff. No doubt that the old folks in the civic group are
all multi-millionaires. As the day wound down, I got back in the rental car
and toured through some of the hills behind the town. There, lie many nice
homes tucked into the rural, forested hills with the rich array of flowers
of so many types, letting off that sweet California smell. A real paradise,
is Del Mar, California.
On return to the community center, I perused some of
the old photographs they have hung up -- big large black and white
photographs of Del Mar in the 1920's. The railroad was there, on the bluff
overlooking the beach just like today. And the main road, US 101, ran
parallel to the beach and inset just like it does today. But there was only
one building, and one or two old model T Ford's parked by the power station
next to what is now the community center. Man the folks who discovered Del
Mar only 80 years ago must have thought they found heaven on earth. Forget
gold; the great land rush was begun then, before our time. I mentioned this
to the Mexican janitor who came by to pleasantly ask me if I needed anything
and he agreed. At least he gets to work there. I eventually pulled myself
away from the town for my journey back to NYC and Newark Airport.