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March
15, 2005 Terrorist
'Tube' Steaks
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By
Dick Laresch
Boulevard
Drinks at Journal Square in Jersey City has been around “forever” or at least as long as this reviewer’s
memory. It’s separated
from Jersey City’s “World Famous” and recently renovated Loews
Theater by a small alley, and also by the
relocated-from-the-PATH-access-row across Kennedy
Boulevard and equally “famous” Tube Bar. This new
bar is not named the Tube Bar, its name is not known to this
reviewer. Yet like the Tube Bar in its last days, it is the only bar
at Journal Square, and therefore inherits
by default the Tube Bar association. During the worst days of Journal
Square, and they may still be counting, the Tube Bar
stood as an iconic symbol of decay and rejuvenation, and there must
always be a bar at Journal Square
in memory of the Tube. Whenever it’s necessary to meet someone at
that particular new bar next to Boulevard Drinks, all parties who
will meet there call it the “Tube Bar” for convenience’s
sake.
The
now-closed genuine Tube Bar is a review unto itself, and there’s likely
plenty of web stuff on that magnificently transient and disreputable
drinking spot. |
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The Tube Bar in its bustling days (likely 40’s 50’s 60’s)
was a way station for princes and paupers; well, the latter. What a
character bar! You couldn’t have a bad time in the Tube even if (likely)
you were down on your chances or down to your last crumbled single. But
you never had a “good” time in the Tube either except it was a
comfortable guilt-free place to drink excessively since the regular
patrons made you, stone alcky that you may be, look like Teetotaler of the
Decade.
There
was never an iota of self-recrimination getting smashed in the Tube. For
the alcoholic or other excessive drinker, such uninhibitedness and
discordant sense of dignified drinking security is a woefully understated
factor in tavern atmospherics. Everybody in the Tube regaled in the
profound hopelessness of their drinking habits and piled on the rounds til
their cash expired – and beyond. The cashed-out depended on the
oft-indulged kindness of strangers who would magnanimously slap down a
buck and change and send one to the penniless, stupored drunk. We’re all
friends in this dank room, no airs please and there wasn’t any air
either. Playing the benefactor as you drank way too much eased the
creeping guilt of being a drunken puking boozer thyself – you’re a
good guy buying that poor critter another drink, and have one thyself for
being such a sport. Round ‘em up! And those rounds were cans of Schaefer
and rotgut rye. Everyone was on equal if stumbling drunk footing, nobody
paid attention to anyone else except as someone noticed a desperate,
cashed-out drunk who you might benefact if you could. And you could always
see your drinking self reflected in some or many of the Tube patrons, of
high or low station though you or they be.
Boulevard
Drinks
This
review is about Boulevard Drinks and food and not about the Tube Bar and
booze, so after you’ve plastered up at the Tube, if you have a few
crumply onesies and a few jingles of change, you tumble down the little
Tube alley and weave your way across Kennedy Boulevard to complete the
assault on that temple of your soul you ignore as your mortal body.
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Boulevard
Drinks serves good quality grill-fried hot dogs available with the
standard, non-yup toppings: chili, onions (raw and paprika-soaked),
sauerkraut and mustard. Maybe green relish. No peanut butter or brie.
It’s a dinky joint, maybe seven spinning backless stools at a counter,
and a window where you can grab the dogs right from the sidewalk. The dogs are outstanding fat-and-salt eating and will, if you
suffer refluxive or other digestive ailments, cause misery hours after
your thoughtless yet pleasurable gobbling.
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Boulevard
Drinks [Click on picture to enlarge]
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Three to four
is a decent number to scarf, above that no mercy on you but you can eat
“several more” if you’re hungry. They are the hot dog equivalent of
White Mana (another belly-destroying Jersey
institution) burgers – the burger of choice for gastroenterologists
across the globe. Boulevard Drinks serves hot dogs and soda (including
nearly extinct “lime-rickeys”) and nothing else. Maybe in the morning,
there is pastry under the glass on the counter stands – maybe – never
been there in the morning. Mana serves more diner-style fare and not much
of that, but curiously does not serve a dog (maybe they do, just have
never seen anyone order one there). People just don’t associate Mana
with hot dogs and it’s impossible to conceive; contrariwise, people
associate dogs and only dogs with Boulevard Drinks, and the institution
itself is riveted into your mind as a Journal Square landmark, along with
the Loews Theater, the ONLY remaining Journal Square attractions from say
as recently as the 80’s.
There
used to be another stellar grill-fried dog joint on Central Avenue off
Hutton Street in the Jersey City Heights; those so blessed will recall
“Texas Hot Wieners,” with it’s smallish inviting red neon sign, hoo
baby you saw that from blocks away and like another kind of dog –
Pavlov’s - your hot dog lovin’ heart began racing and your stomach
began churning. Texas Hot Wieners differed only from Boulevard Drinks in
that there was no sidewalk window. There was though a window which looked
right onto the grilling doggies, whereby you could view them as you walked
in, with the dog-minder rolling them tither and fro, fro and tither as if
he were daintily walking real scurrying mutts. Deadly and delicious fare
you brought home in wax paper and brown bag and woofed in front of Tom
Snyder’s Tomorrow show, or some late night, post-drinking background
noise on the idiot tube. Awakening in the still darkness of early morning,
grimly doing your mattress rotisserie, mimicking the desirous dog rolling
earlier on the grill as you tumble around in bed tying to get comfortable
suffering digestive reflux – “heartburn” before medical science
renamed it and provided expensive pill cures. Trying to balance the desire
to remain in bed with the necessity of arising and draining a glass of
warm water and Baking Soda to put out the “Snoopy’s Revenge” fire
blazing in your chest. Blame not the dog, blame the condiments. Okay,
blame the dog too but arise – arise! - and put out that raging inferno
from hell! Emit the volcanic belch of contentedness as the pure alkaline
of the Baking Soda meets the pure acid of digesting unnamed dog bits and
condiment spices, simultaneously releasing stubborn gas pockets and
dousing the tormenting heartblaze like a swimming pool bursting on a
campfire. And slumber soundly thereafter. There’s nothing like a gentle
sleep after a hearty dose of “salts” to assuage the torment of
food-induced chestfire. Lord forbid it’s a work day and you have to
interrupt this wonderful state before full rest is achieved and the embers
doused.
Boulevard
Drinks retains its original pink and blue neon sign which brought hot
diggety anticipation to so many dog-lusting patrons. The sign gives you a
feeling of nostalgia as you visit Boulevard Drinks, a nice counterpoint to
the inevitable digestive turbulence that will torment you as surely as the
sunset that evening or sunrise next morning. But you’re a tough
customer, you like your devil dogs, and you can take it. You want it, you
know it, you enjoy the moment. The stand used to be owned in the long ago
(60’s, 70’s 80’s(?)) by Greeks(?), perhaps(?), but is now owned by
Middle Easterners. So just as you drink your Guinness and figure some of
the money is going to the terrorists who comprise the IRA, you contemplate
as you woof your dog, if your innocent hot dog money is going to fund
gayrab terror, a silly thought that should not prevent you from furiously
downing “three, four, or more” Boulevard Drink dogs. Money is fungible
but the dogs, these griddlin’ good dogs are not.
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I remember the dot dog joint on Central Ave just North
of Hutton St. The Texas Hot Wieners were wonderful! Living in the Midwest
there are few if any places that can come close to these great dogs. I'd
like to know if anyone has come up with the recipe for these.
Paul Kurtis
St Paul, MN
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